Plans change. Until a few weeks before flying from Newburgh, New York, to Dublin, Ireland, I had not expected to make the trip. Instead, the original idea had been to see London, England, over Thanksgiving Break...but, one thing led to another, and the airline I was going to fly with went bankrupt. Flash forward to December 14th, and I was touching down with Norwegian Air close to midnight just outside of the capital of Ireland.
Dublin
The capital city of Ireland, Dublin has many interesting places to visit. Although the charm of Ireland as a whole can best be enjoyed by renting a car and exploring the countryside, Dublin provides a good home base and city worth exploring in its own right, especially in the evenings when the streets surrounding the River Liffey come alive with activity.
Dining
Having opened in 1198, making it the oldest pub in Ireland, The Brazen Head is worth swinging by, even if you come to the same conclusion that I did: it's a little busy for a laidback drink. Fortunately, just about a block away, on the other side of the bridges spanning the river, is The Legal Eagle, where you can enjoy a delicious drink (or two) from the extensive cocktail list alongside any number of small plates or entrees. For a bit of everything, I would recommend the Irish meat platter, which is accompanied by a generous amount of bread and butter.
Drinks
The Temple Bar neighborhood of Dublin, on the southern side of the River Liffey, is described by some as touristy, but, especially around Christmas, it is also a gorgeous area to see. Not far from this part of the city is the cocktail bar Farrier and Draper. I stopped by and ordered a seasonal cocktail, named "Winter Kisses," which consisted of Ketel One, Mozart Dark Chocolate Liqueur, Pomegranate Juice, Chili Syrup, Cherry Syrup, and Egg Whites. The drink was delicious, but the ambiance is what makes the experience truly unique: the bar consists of many differently styled rooms with framed portraits covering the walls.
Northern Ireland
As I mentioned above, the best way to see Ireland is to rent a car and drive yourself around the country. A few things to note: one drives on the left side of the road and the right side of the car, so the reverse of what those from the United States are accustomed to. More importantly, be aware of the fact that the roads are quite narrow compared to American roads. This is the case through much of Europe and is the reason a relative of mine once mistook a bike lane for an exit ramp in the Netherlands.
In one day, it is possible, starting from Dublin, to see some of the best sights of Northern Ireland and be back in the city in time for an evening drink. However, if you are hesitant to drive at night, or would rather not drive close to seven or eight hours in the span of one day, consider staying a night in the Ballycastle area of Northern Ireland.
In my trip north, I hit three main sights. About a 3 hour drive from Dublin, The Dark Hedges were the first stop. This archway of about 90 beech trees has been featured in Game of Thrones. Although I was warned by two young Irish girls, leaving the hedges with their parents, to watch out for the Grey Lady, a ghost said to hover above the trees, I saw neither her nor any other ghosts, so this likely need not be too much of a concern for those visiting.
After checking The Dark Hedges off the list, Kinbane Castle was up next. I had first become aware of this spot by following the travel vlogging and photography of the couple behind the YouTube travel channel Flying the Nest. A gorgeous shot on Instagram of the ruins had piqued my interest, but I hadn't expected to be so inspired and amazed by the gorgeous 360-degree views that one is rewarded with after walking down the steps to see the remains of the castle up close.
Finally, at the urging of many guidebooks and travel accounts, I stopped by The Giant's Causeway, the only one of the three spots mentioned that involved an entrance fee. Whether one believes that the basalt columns are the result of volcanic activity or the work of a pair of battling giants, it is a nice trip with views reminiscent of those that can be seen on the black sand beach Reynisfjara of Iceland.
Cliffs of Moher
The Cliffs of Moher are the second most-visited attraction in Ireland after...the Guinness Storehouse in Dublin. Guinness reigns supreme in the country, and perhaps if it weren't so windy, the cliffs would unseat the storehouse as the most popular spot.
Having visited Howth, Ireland, a forty-minute drive outside Dublin, on my first full day in the country, I thought I had already experienced the most intense winds and rain the island had to offer. Goodness, was I wrong. While walking the path overlooking the cliffs, I felt certain that the wind would toss me over the barrier, and I watched a few individuals bracing themselves against the tower at one viewing point to attempt to have a fighting chance against the elements.
If you manage not to get thrown overboard, the cafe on the second floor of the visitor center serves pots of tea with great views of the cliffs, even when the weather is a bit overcast, which is often the case in Ireland.
Galway
On the west coast of Ireland, Galway is worth spending at least a full day exploring. Quay Street in the center of town is lined with charming shops, including Thomas Dillons Claddagh Gold Jewellers, the original creator of the famous Claddagh ring, composed of a heart for love, surrounded by hands for friendship, and topped by a crown for loyalty. Unlikely to be a year-round sight, at least around the holidays, it is possible to come across a Christmas donkey donning a Santa hat being guided through the streets.
Dining
Close to the River Corrib in Galway is Cupan Tae, a cozy traditional Irish teahouse. The Creamy Dreamy Galway tea, a mix of black tea, coffee, and Jasmine flowers is the best tea I have ever had, and I intend to take advantage of the fact that they deliver tea orders to the United States.
Just outside of Galway, about a forty-minute walk or ten-minute drive to the west, is Salthill, an attraction in its own right. Aside from the Promenade, a trail running along Galway Bay, there are some great restaurants, including O'Connor's Famous Pub, where Ed Sheeran filmed part of the music video for "Galway Girl".
Nearby is the restaurant Black Cat, where I had perhaps the best meal of my life. The Mediterranean Fisherman's Stew, with prawn bisque and a seafood medley, served alongside sourdough bread is a perfect main dish. If you choose to go the tapas route, I recommend the rabbit loin stuffed with black pudding or the ramekin of prawns and squid.
Through travel, the change of scenery, and the opportunity to have new thoughts about a different place, it is much easier to come back having learned something new, in addition to returning with interesting stories and fulfilling memories.
This trip taught me an important lesson about travel: not every detail has to be meticulously planned out in advance to have a fantastic experience. Some of my favorite places were ones that I found through a Google Maps search less than a half hour before heading over, namely Black Cat in Salthill and Cupan Tae in Galway. I do, however, feel that some preparations do still need to be made in advance. In the case of Ireland, this includes being ready to face the wind and rain of the island, as they will try to literally knock you over. Leave the umbrella and parka at home...they are no match.
Taisteal sona! (Happy travels!)