During the shutdown in 2020, Los Angeles, California, was more open than Seattle, WA, where I was riding out isolation, well, solo. I fell in love with biking along Venice Beach, sandwiched between the vastness of the Pacific Ocean and the waterside shops and restaurants, so much so that I returned a second time during 2020, experiencing sunset dinner in Santa Monica. This July, I went back a third time. Although Angelenos' reliance on cars is, for the time being, at least, keeping me from moving to the city, Los Angeles is my favorite place in the country to visit. These are my favorite spots.
Spoiler: if you're looking for Hollywood or Downtown LA tips, you've come to the wrong place. For me, LA is Santa Monica and Venice...except for that one time I took my life in my hands and biked fifteen miles on the Pacific Coastal Highway from Will Rogers Beach to Malibu.
What to Do
Visit the Venice Canals
Built in 1905, the Venice Canals of Los Angeles mimic the canals in Italy. Before seeing them in person, I only knew of them from the film Valentine's Day, so what I found most surprising is their labyrinthine nature. The canals are seemingly endless, with each house along the water different from those around it.
Bike the Boardwalk
If you are staying in the Venice area, you can bike along the ocean about six miles north to Will Rogers Beach. Along the way, there is the Santa Monica Pier, which reopened between the second and third times I visited the city. Riding the ferris wheel costs only $10/ticket and is truly worth it for the views of the ocean on one side and sprawling Los Angeles on the other.
Go Jet Skiing
There are plenty of rental options in the Santa Monica and Venice Beach areas. Marina del Rey Boat Rentals accepts reservations by phone, and all of their policies are clearly outlined on their website. For additional peace of mind, the driver of each ski has to take a video quiz on how far to stay from the shore and other vessels, a reassurance when the cost for righting a capsized jet ski is over $300. Jet skiing was a great way to combine the thrill of a rollercoaster ride with a swim in the ocean while enjoying fantastic, unobstructed views of the beach. Granted, as I wasn't the one who had to drive, my perception is likely biased, since I wasn't dealing with the stress of keeping the vehicle upright.
Where to Get Coffee
Menotti's
A shop I first became aware of because of influencer Carrie Rad's Venice guide, Menotti's is located right along Venice Beach. What makes this place unique, aside from the great coffee that doesn't even need sweeteners to be delicious, is the vinyl collection. Inside the shop, a record is always playing, which creates a cozy ambiance.
Alfred
When I first went to LA, I found Alfred's Beverly Hills location, but they have since opened a spot right on Abbot Kinney Boulevard in Venice. With locations in Los Angeles, Austin, and Japan, Alfred is best known for their iced vanilla latte and Chagaccino, featuring chaga mushroom, vanilla, cacao, cinnamon, monkfruit and topped with espresso and milk. It is my favorite coffee drink I've ever had, so much so that I am going to try to recreate it at home.
Where to Have Dinner
Fia
Fia Restaurant in Santa Monica serves a blend of Californian and Italian cuisine in the outdoor garden of my wildest dreams. There is a small indoor dining area, but the outdoor space is where you truly want to be. The whole patio is dotted overhead with twinkle lights, and looking up you can see the sky beyond the trees.
Normally, a restaurant either masters the cocktails or the savory dishes or the dessert, but Fia has expertise across the board. The drinks were all multi-layered, delicious, and beautifully presented. The charred cauliflower and scallops with fava bean risotto and sweet potatoes were so good they practically demanded the plate be scraped of each remaining piece of risotto. And closing out the experience, the chocolate dome was a presentation worthy of Broadway or the big screen. Molten chocolate was poured down from above, flames rising up, to reveal the densest chocolate dessert I've had. The caramelized dark chocolate mousse, coffee cream, almond praline, and cocoa biscuit created a beautiful interplay of textures and flavors.
Normally, this type of experience would be worthy of multiple Michelin stars and cost $400/couple for a pre-fix menu, but at Fia, the prices are immensely reasonable, practically a steal.
Elephante
Elephante is a southern Mediterranean rooftop restaurant with views of the ocean in Santa Monica. After I first went in 2020, I was thinking about their whipped eggplant served with a cloud of puccia bread, that emits steam when torn apart, for an entire year. The decor is inspired by Northern Africa and Southern Italy, which I enjoy for its uniqueness. All of the food and drinks are good, but the true revelation is the whipped eggplant, in addition to the views.