Kendrick Peak, Arizona; Iceland; Santorini. Perhaps being named after a volcano has created a desire to visit areas known for their volcanic activity.
Santorini, Greece, located in the Aegean Sea, is likely best known for the sunsets in the northernmost city of Oia, but during my time there, I had the chance to enjoy much more.
I'm not suggesting you walk all the way from Oia to Kamari, although there is a frequently-traversed route from Oia to Thera, but this map gives an overview of where my favorite cities are, in addition to showing the approximate size of the island.
Oia
Sunset (and sunrise)
Oia is where everybody flocks to get unreal photos of the sunset. Although I thoroughly enjoyed finding a quieter alcove from which to watch the sky turn gorgeous shades of orange and pink, I would also highly recommend watching the sunrise.
Vitrin for Coffee
In Oia, if you are an early riser who is also very dependent on coffee, there are three primary options: Passaggio, Passaris, and Vitrin. Having tried and enjoyed all three, I must say my favorite is Vitrin. It is the only one that has a view of the Aegean, in addition to the island of Thirasia. The resident sheepdog, space to sit down, and an extensive menu of crepes adds to the appeal.
Melitini for Flavorful Mediterranean Tapas
I was only in Santorini for five nights and four days, but I had to visit Melitini twice. Both times, I was taken care of by the same really kind waiter, who on my second visit, said in a charming accent, "Hello again, lady. What will you be trying tonight?"
Everything at Melitini is incredible, from the eggplant dip and pita to the chicken and spicy sausage. The best items on the menu are the desserts, though: the Portokalopita (Greek Orange Phyllo Cake) was so juicy that cutting into it looked and felt like peeling apart the slices of an orange, and the chocolate mousse was as dense as thick icing.
Pyrgos
While getting late-night gelato at Solo Gelato in Oia, I asked the server where his favorite spot on the island was. He said that he especially loved Pyrgos, a village south of Santorini's capital Fira, so the next day, I followed his recommendation: after getting the bus from Oia to Fira, I made the hourlong trek to Pyrgos.
Quieter than Oia, with fewer tourists wandering the labyrinthine streets, Pyrgos, with its many cats and dogs roaming about, is a delight.
Having only opened last year, Agaze did not pop up during my Google searches while I was planning where to go on my trip. But, as I was walking by on my way to explore Pyrgos, I heard "Mamma Mia" playing on the speakers and knew I had to stop in. The decor is amazing, fun, and vibrant, the product of the collaboration between a skilled interior designer and a fashion designer.
A little south of Agaze is Venetsanos Winery. The spot looked closed when I got there, but opening a door at the bottom of a set of exterior stairs led me first to their museum and then to the spot where the wine tastings are hosted.
Santorini wines primarily use Assyrtiko grapes, which can contribute to a crisp white wine when aged in stainless steel or an oilier beverage when French oak barrels are employed.
The wine on the far right, Vinsanto Vintage 2003, is a dessert wine made through the opposite process implemented in the production of ice wine. Instead of waiting until the grapes are frozen, one waits until the grapes have turned to raisins, producing a sweet wine with notes of caramel.
Kamari
Tourists are more fond of the Red Beach, near the ruins of Akrotiri, and the Black Beach of Perissa, but I found the quieter Kamari Beach to be most charming. An almost empty beach and Crema Latte gelato? Sounds like a great last day in Greece to me.
A few things to know...
1. Euros are essential in Santorini, from paying for the buses to covering the bill at many restaurants.
Even when restaurants accept credit cards for payment, some only accept tips in cash. Believe me, when you are given chocolate mousse, a shot of mastika, or Greek yogurt with sweet dates on the house after a meal, you are going to want to leave a tip.
2. Don't rely on the shuttle services if you have an early flight.
On the morning of my departure, while I was calling the shuttle service with whom I had booked my transport to the airport multiple times, I began to wonder if Donna from Mamma Mia never left the fictional Greek island of Kalokairi simply because she couldn't get a ride to the airport.
If you can, stay close to the airport on your last night or book a flight later in the day so that you can take advantage of the bus route to Santorini Airport.
3. Wake up early to enjoy the quiet and serenity of Santorini.
Even in the off-season, the streets of Oia become much more crowded in the afternoon, but if you rise with the sun, you can explore the streets with only the cats and dogs (and donkeys) to share them with.
4. If you choose to not rent a vehicle, there is a bus system that visits the major destinations on the island.
In March 2019, this was the schedule. Tickets are purchased in Euros on the bus. Exact change is not required.
5. Don't rely on posted opening times or full service in the off-season.
If you really want to have a meal at a specific location, call or email ahead to inquire about the hours.
Even if you have to take a 40-hour flight to cut down on costs, Santorini is more than worth it. I am already planning a return trip.
